Seeing the wall.

"You cannot fully understand your own life without knowing and thinking beyond your life, your own neighborhood, and even your own nation. ~Johnnetta Cole"

Saturday was a rather interesting day. We began by a tour of the Old City of Lefkosia.

The thing about the country of Cyprus, something that I had read and knew about but didn't fully understand, is the diverse history and culture of this place. As with many of the countries throughout Europe, there have been several ruling entities and influencing cultures over time.

One of the biggest settling groups was Greece, and the country has also been controlled by the Venetians (who built the wall around the city, which now divides it into old and new), the Ottomans (or Turks), and the British. Eventually, the Cypriots sought independence, becoming the Republic of Cyprus. At that time, the Greek Cypriots and the Turkish Cypriots were living together as neighbors and such.

The country's location in the midst of so many important areas is largely what has created so many of these issues over the years. And it continues to create problems for the people of this beautiful country. After they had begun self-ruling, a coup was attempted by the Greek government (this attempt failed).

This, in turn, caused the Turkish Cypriots to become a bit frightened (and especially frightened the Turkish government), prompting them to flee to enclaves and enabling the Turks to feel the right to invade the country. They were stopped, but only after gaining control of half of the island. This division is visible in a "green line," which can be seen on any map, and a guard controlled fence that can be witnessed in public.

That was around 40 years ago and the island has yet to be reunited, despite efforts from many international entities. In the eyes of the world, the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (the name that Turkey has given the controlled area) does not exist. In the same sense, the Turks do not recognize the Republic of Cyprus.

Reading this in books and hearing about this from various people still does not prepare one fully for the sight of a country divided. As we walked along on our tour, we slowly stopped and were told that we could not take photographs from beyond this point on the street. Just beyond the corner, we could see large gas can-type containers and tires all painted in blue and white, the colors of the Greek flag.

The group got very quiet (surprising for a large group of college students) and we moved slowly forward. Straight ahead, blocking the street, was a podium of sorts with a small hut on it, like one of those pay toll booths at the airport. All of it was in the Greek blue and white and there was a Greek flag hanging nearby. Inside the hut was a young man, probably 20, at most, wearing military garb.

Next to the podium, there was a corner building with the door open and a few more young men in fatigues could be seen. They all watched us intently (although I wondered if it was because we looked like trouble or more so because there are many women of their same age in our group) and we gathered around the guide to hear more.

We were told that these men were members of the Greek National Guard, which is a requirement for all Greek men, starting when they are 17 and continuing until their early 20s. Also, behind the barriers is what is known as the UN Buffer Zone, which is patrolled by UN guards. Beyond that, is another barrier, monitored by the Turkish military.

Walking away, the streets were noticeably empty. Almost eerie. Despite that, I didn't feel unsafe, just intrigued. And a bit saddened. All of this emptiness because of one country's need to control another or their distrust in others. It seems hard for my mind to understand. I suppose it is because I have never truly seen anything such as this firsthand.

I've been to Auschwitz before. That was a feeling of eeriness that I cannot describe. This ranked very closely with that. It's amazing to believe that a country so advanced in so many ways, so European, so open to the world around, is just a hop away from something such as this. It's rather like I would have imagined the Berlin wall to be.

Not having actually met or spoken with any of the Turkish Cypriots, I can only imagine what they must feel about all of this, but the feelings are evident on the faces of the Greek Cypriots when they think on it. The look on the face of the tour guide was just one of almost shock. As though, despite the 40-plus years of existence of this division, she still had difficulty believing it.

Later, when we returned to our apartments, out of the Old City and south of it all, we could see in the distance a mountain. This mountain lies on the northern side of the line and pretty well sums up what the Turkish government wants to express. It is a flag, which lights up at night, and was done in secretive.

It just seems like all of this is something that shouldn't be happening. Not in the advanced world that we supposedly live in. Of course, I suppose at the end of the day, everyone fails to forget those lessons of kindness, sharing, and putting others first, that they were taught in kindergarten.

Most probably say it's not that simple.

All of this said, the rest of Lefkosia was a pretty diverse city with a mix of modern and traditional and of all peoples. Even in the old city part. There are a variety of stores, restaurants, everything. Anything one could imagine.

We passed a Mexican restaurant, which is supposedly the best in the city (said by the owner as we stood on the street outside), a variety of Chinese restaurants, and so many other places, including a mosque. Later, we saw a group of men playing backgammon outside a small cafe.

That night, we ate a Syrian restaurant, which was very good. It was a rather slow visit but still good. The owner is a nice man, who kept coming over to joke with us and other patrons. He even decided that all of the Americans will get a 30% discount from now on, since so many were going there.

Can't wait for what is to come.